Monday, July 11, 2005

well, surf summary

the surf was fucking awsome and perfect no doubt but just like i said, it did not start picking up intil around 4, peaking at 6. good thing i learned a new way to to do swell arival timing, MATH AND SCIENCE GO A LONG WAY!!! charlie and his dad kept sayign all day and on the way there, ohh there will be surf, well guess what fuckers, it was about knee high when we got there! next time, ill make my own damn call, sometimes gut instinct is better, but when you have a swell interval, and waves headed towards a coast, yea maybe the best spot to surf it is gut, but the speed of a swell is math and has been discovered long ago, so lets just stick to the books people. anyways, enough ranting, cause maybe i just lucky (funny i gave myself a margin of error, but i ended up being dead on). i surfed like crapo! charlie and i both, just couldnt get with the program today. we both had some decent rides, but for me especially those were few and far between, meaning, i wasnt having a very good time. at least a i got a badass tan, on top of my already badass tan, so now im just plain, dark hahahahahahaha, and i think we will go out again tomarrow, so i plan on getting... thats right folks, DARKER! hopefully i will get my shit together tomarrow, i think i was just in a bad vibe, o well. man i did get a few nice rights though, cracked the lip on one, but didnt have enough speed to return into the bottom, damn. anyways back to the info, my shoulders are sore as shit from all the paddling, someone please, perferably female (hahaha) come and give me a massage, and i will do seriously anything in return. money whatever u name it. shit i might goto a massage thing tomarrow if im still this damn sore (more than likely, i will be). o well good work out though. man im soooo tired, it is def time for bed, but i feel like i brought the damn ocean back with me on my skin, no good. o well im way too tired to stand in the damn shower, so ill just rough it out, and feel salty, i really dont care right now. ahhhhhhhh damn. i could really go for a corona right now, and pass the fuck out. laters

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