Thursday, July 26, 2007

The phantom swell

Well our swell here in Mita has been taking the phantom route. First she decided to show her head almost 3 days late and it got good but not too lined up. Hrmm.... Joe and I got a boat to The Cove yesterday morning and it was big but not working that well. It was a solid 6 - 8ft with some bigger set waves coming through, but like I said, not that good. The first 5 minutes we were out there I had another brush with disaster. Im paddling toward this major set wave to try and get under it before it unloads on my head and I see this guy trying to take off on it. My first thought was "wow, this dude has some balls, thats a major drop and she is already looking like a closeout". I see him struggling and Im waiting to see which direction he will go so I can paddle out of the way when the wave starts pitching. He makes eye contact with me just as he eats it coming down the lip. I try and duck dive as hard as I can and just before I go underwater I see his board coming straight at me. I decide to not go too deep and I kick the tail of my board to angle her nose up and block my face. Good move..... kinda. It worked but the wave was so big it picked up me right as his board hit me in the head. I get flipped backwards and my own board is ripped from my hands by the force of the wave and I feel a leash wrapping around me. I became seriously entangled in his leash with both of our boards being wrapped up too. So here I am in the rinse cycle, now being dragged and hit with random boards and I cant make the surface. I really, seriously thought that I was going to drown but I did my best to stay calm and not fight the entanglement. I came out of the mess and immediatly saw another wave bearing down on us and got the fuck out of that disaster. He was apologizing profusely but I said it was all cool, I was just scared more than anything.

So that little incident set the stage for the rest of my session and I could not for the life of me make myself calm down and relax and just enjoy the waves. I took only one ride and it wasnt even worth writing home about. I got caught inside on a major clean up set and the second wave of that set decided that duckdiving a serious overhead wave as it slammed on me was not going to work. Yes... backwards through the rinse cycle again and that one had me coming up gasping. That was it for me. I paddled back out and sat there. I waited for the boat to come and just couldnt get my shit together. I had a lot on my mind as well and that didnt help either. So for the next 45 minutes, I sat there, like a fucking kook, dodging waves, and trying to rationalize some things in my head. I hate that crap. Sometimes surfing can get me to clear my head of all my problems and then other times it does nothing but make me think even harder about them.

Well Mita has been being nice to us again this year. Not surf wise but just meeting some cool people and all that mess. I think we have been invited to more free dinners and boat trips than I can recall. Im not ready to go home. My time is coming. We need to hit the road this monday or tuesday and Im not looking forward to it at all. I love Mexico. I love being on the road. I love surfing. Dammit...... what does it take??

Tuesday, July 17, 2007


Well... after 2 weeks or something, we had to let poor Ticla go. Yes, we relenquished the hold on her waves and we decided to share. Of course I´m kidding.....

Ticla was amazing and we had a blast there. Too many beers, waves, tacos, and hamburgers to remember everything in order but I can say... I had a blast.

I want to give MAD PROPS to TACO JIM, hailing from LA... for eating 43 TICLA TACOS in 32 minutes!!!!!!! You will forever be remembered our linebacker friend!

Well, we have just 2 more weeks of this great trip and I´m sad to see it coming to and end. Its now or never, time to step it up. These last 2 weeks will not go down in any other way than spectacular. Yes.......... that´s the plan. PV and all those wonderful other waves in between.... here we come

Saturday, July 07, 2007

in La Ticla

Well, I havent written in a long long while. Hell Im not even sure when was the last time I wrote. We are in La Ticla now and the waves have just been solid head to a couple of feet over head for the past 5 days or so. This left here is just fun and reeeeeeling without too much of a price for when you eat it. Only thing sketchy is the entrance and exit from the water, many many rocks and my feet are paying the price already.

Well, we had a blast up in Coleta de Campos and we stayed maybe a bit too long but that place was just addicting. The local family that owned the rest. we were staying in pretty much adopted us and when it was time to leave, phone numbers and promises of return were exchanged. We headed out past Maurata and Huihui (i think thats how it is spelled) because not much seemed to be happening and we got some stearn travel warnings for (wah wah). Evidently its pretty heavy there right now with the narcos and such so we just blazed on through.

Now in Ticla, we have us a solid Texas stronghold. There are a bunch of guys from Texas and we have been holding down the fort at our campsite hahahaa. Numerous nights of crazy partying, going dancing in the town dances and just general madness have been taking place. We have been hearing that the nickname for this place is Texla hahahahaha! We are camping with a guy who has been down here surfing in Mex at Ticla and Nexpa since the late 70s and even saw Petacalco breaking a few times before they built the dam. We are going to hang out a few more days here and then we will figure out what we are doing. Im trying to arrange a meetup with a cool guy from Cali out at my secret left point someone showed me last summer. We will see how that works out. Well..... until next time

CORY, HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA, you ready for the cruise when we get back?????????? I hope so, and you better start practising your drinking, your going to need it.