Wednesday, March 29, 2006


Well I havent really had much to post or talk about so I figured I would post just to let everyone know whats been going on. Work is getting extreamly boring and there is isnt much to do. Ill be very happy come april 17th, and work is officially OVER! My older bro might be coming into town to see me this weekend and that will be awsome. I havent seen him in a while and I love hanging out with him. Im goin to try and do my best to convince his ass to move here to Texas. Well... I have a math test I should be studying for so I'll get back to work on that.

Friday, March 24, 2006

Nothing to Report

Well I dont really have to much to say. I got back early thursday morning from Oklahoma where I was attending my grandfather's funeral. Something amazing did happen when we were fallowing the herse and the police car. Everyone was pulling over to the side of the road, even on the other side and we were on a 4 lane divided highway mind you! We even passed a construction crew and they all stopped and stood on the edge of the road with their hardhats over their hearts. AMAZING! The police as they finished escorting jumped out of their cars and stood at attention on the side of the road as we passed. This just amazed everyone as we all come from large cities. This type of behavior and show of respect would have never happened where we come from. Well surf is a freaking wreck right now in texas but we will see what happens for next week. Strong onshore flow should return and start building the surf again. woooooooooooooooooooooo

OHHH btw... here is a link to a video of monday when I was out there. This is around 4 hours after I left when the offshores really started hitting. For those of you who think there is no surf in texas, well here ya go.

Monday, March 20, 2006

Morning Surf

Today was a nice little session at 37th street in Galveston. 37th tends to break harder and more hallower than the rest of the spots on the island, even its nickname is 37 dump street. It was mostly chest high with semi decent lines. I caught several lefts and rights, none of which were really worth mentioning or recalling, but I had a great time overall. I did however catch a macking headhigh cleanup right on the head. This wave was huge with a horrible sucking face (the tide was going out and makes 37th very hollow) and she was hellbent on killing me. I duckdived and it slammed on my head with all its might and I must have flipped 2 or 3 times with board in hand and it was pretty exciting. This one kid took a horrible pitching wave and somehow made the drop, completely verticle. I thought for sure he would eat it, but he let out a loud yell (maybe yeee-haaawww!! lol) and landed it. The water temp wasnt too bad and I trunked it without a shirt much to the amazement of several guys out. Water was like 67 with severe overcast skies and low 60s air temp. So now Im sitting here at work, and I just love that salty feeling all over me and Im not being sarcastic. Maybe I was just a beach bum in another life or something, but I actually enjoy it. The cakey hair that will stay in any formation you put it, the flaky salty skin, the smell of the water and salt. The problem is Im so incredibly tired due to the 2 hours of sleep I got last night. BLEH!!! I had some awsome post worked out in my head while driving to the beach this morning but I have forgotten it. It was just a rant about dreams and lockdown USA, basically all the same shit Im always bitching about.

Friday, March 17, 2006

Change of Plans looks like I will miss out on a sunday sesh due to the death of my grandfather today. I didnt know him very well (met him once) but I will be driving to Oklahoma this weekend to meet my moms side of the family, some I havent seen in over 10 years! I will however be back in time to catch monday going off as a cool front is forecast to pass over giving us some offshores. I just finished my new "The Surfer's Path" and there is an awsome article about surfing on the Marshall Islands. The author mentions a guy he runs into and the conversation they have. The guy just seems to live and camp out kinda wherever life may take him and he says this. "I've never had a career. Soceity looks at you and sets the bar, especially in L.A. What car you drive, where you live, where you work. I haven't had a car in 25 years." "I'm rediscovering the art of human being. When I look at people in today's society, I see human doings and human thinkings, but the 'being' part - what is that? What is it to just be? I want to just 'unbecome', because our whole life is spent because something like being a beautiful creature isn't enough." As more and more time goes by, I realize...I would like to strip down....and leave. There is so much in the world for me to see and I cant keep sitting here, reading stories of how so many other people are living how I would like to live for a bit. This summer is going to rock. Anyways...hopefully I will have some pictures of the surf to post by monday or tuesday.

Thursday, March 16, 2006

Here We Go Again

Here comes the swell. Well its looking like another lonnggggggg surfed-out weekend. Im not complaining ny ANY means, just getting a little anxious again. Man, I really love the springtime. Lately things have been a mess with me. I really need to slow down, and take care of the small things in my life that need my attention. Work is a major factor as I dont get home most nights until around 9:30. By then my laundry, dishes and homework are the last things on my mind. I have just been living in this stupid pattern lately to only take care of things on the weekend when I feel like putting forth the effort. That has got to end as I really feel like Im living weekend to weekend and I really cant recall much of what I did all week that has any significance. A weekend of surf like last just complicates things more as I will be spending most of my waking time in the water, and those little things I have been putting off until the weekend wont get done. I have barely seen my roommate and we havent gotten much of a chance to talk one on one lately except for last night. Well anyways. Im very excited about going to Mexico. I have been putting together a small list of things I need to buy before I leave, but believe me when I say small. I plan on packing very light and only taking the necesities, clothes (not much), batteries, sunscreen, shampoo/soap/toothbrush and toothepaste, digital camera, mp3 player, passport, boards. Thats pretty much about it. I might bring my little beard trimmer to keep the beard/mustache in check. I called the other day about my tickets and I found some good deals from Houston to Guadalajara averaging about $107. This is an express bus and has very few stops and flys right across the border so I dont have to deal with all the border crap on the way in. The way out however is a different story. I might try and get across the country before I come back to see Leslie in Tampico. I feel thats the least I can do for dragging her through so much of my shit. Im really looking forward to being in Tampico as well and it seems like a nice place. Hopefully, I will get ultra lucky and catch some nice hurricane surf going off and I will get the chance to surf with her. I hope we get some decent spring swell when she gets here in 3 weeks so I can take her out and show her our muddy water, mushy breaks, and of course.....THE SHARKS!!!!!! Hahahahaha, she is deathly afraid of them and she has convinced herself that in Tampico, the sharks dont come near the beach/surf spots. of their main spots is right on the inside of a long jetty that seperates a rivermouth. Can you say....sharky sharky??????? Well.... I still havent decided if I will post while Im in Mexico or if I will just update with locations of where I am or not blog at all. Im really feeling the "not at all route" because I want to ..... unplug. Bad part is, I might be carrying a cell phone so I really dont know how "unplugged" I will be. Anyways.....gotta pass flyers out here at work. Surf is coming....

Monday, March 13, 2006

The 5 days Texas Went OFF!

Well, its Monday afternoon and Im back at work. I missed the session with offshores this morning because I was just tooo tired. I have driven over 400 miles total for surf and another 160 was going to do me in. I went back down to surf on saturday and I finally made it out of my little slump. I caught some pumping lefts and a couple of nice little rights. It was a tad choppier but still chest to head high. I jetty jumped because it was breaking waaaaay out and the paddle out would have been ridiculous. 1 left I remember in particular, I have a hard time seeing the line when Im goign backside, and this wave was no exception. I made a perfect drop and bottom turned dropping low and grabbing my rail, pumped a little and got myself moving. Standing up a little, I looked down the line and "lost" the wave and I could feel myself losing speed. I turned hard back to the left to try and find her and my foot cranked right into the traction pad and I met the wave's face. Turning back right and down again I finished out the ride just pumping and making little turns. Sunday (yesterday) was pretty good but we decided to check out Galveston and man it was choppy. Still Charlie and I made the best out of it, and we surfed our asses off. I caught a few nice rights. One I made a huge bottom turn and was diggin hard to turn back into the face and WHAM, my front foot slipped right off the board and I ate shit. My last good wave, we went onto the other side of the jetty and one of best surfers in Texas was over there with a few others. This was extreamly intimidating and in such choppy and unorganized conditions, I was very nervous. There I was sitting on the side of him, and some other guy and I just saw this little line coming in. The awsome guy didnt go for it, but the other dude was, and we both raced and I just got very confident and stayed right in the peak, and took that wave. I had a fun little right couple of pumps, but that wave was more about respect and I kind of felt it when I paddled back over next to the guy I raced for it. FINALLY, Im not just a stupid newb in the water! The weekend was pretty fun. Saturday when we got out of the water there was a huge house party right down the street and EVERYONE was invited TEXAS style. Couple of kegs (all this for st. patties day) soem bar-b-que and lots of grungy waaaaaaayyyy suburb, cattle land small town people. Ok fuck it, hicks, but they were being really cool. Everyone was super nice and drunk as shit, so we had a blast. Damn if only everyday I could get outa the surf, have a few beers and some hotdogs and for free at that. Well work calls and surf is gonna suck this week.

Friday, March 10, 2006

Yesterday Recap

Well as for the surf, it was PUMPING! The sets were average chest to 1 foot overhead on the bigger set waves. We had a nice 10-15mph offshore that was almost more of a pain than a blessing. Anyways, I have got to surf more. I totally kooked out and blew alot of potentially good rides. I hesitated waaaaaay too much plain and simple. I did however get a few good lefts, got the bottom turn and tried to smack the lip a little. I only got 1 right, and it was very sub par. BLEEHHHHHH i keep blowing these perfect swells, when will it end?? I woke up this morning to find my knee in severe pain and walking is very difficult. I dont know what thats about but it better heal fast because i have every intention of paddling back out on saturday. Today, bouy is around 9FT again with 10sec periods. I love this.

Wednesday, March 08, 2006


Haha sorry, I just had to give it a movie title. Surfside bouy is peaking around 8.7-9.5Ft at 8 seconds. The bouy is showing a solid 6.2ft of swell with overall significant wave height of 8.9 at the moment. Our swell period is 8.3sec. check her out at
The only problem is the near 30kts winds clocking out of the SSE. They should calm down tomarrow as the front passes over us, and winds are forecast to go W or SW. Hopefully they will be light and clean this up a bit. The jetty at surfside should save us from the longshores and hopefully shelter the swell from the wind a little bit. Ill post tomarrow night after i get out of it. The water temps at the beach are hovering at 64. If they climb again back to 68, im gonna try and trunk it. The air temps tomarrow should be high 70's low 80's and sunny so I should stay pretty warm.

Tuesday, March 07, 2006

In 48 Hours...

I'll be the happiest man alive. Heres why...

Wait.... I left out a detail...light offshores are forecast as well. It just can't get any better. Wait yet again....68 degrees in the water and swell holding waist to cheast till sometime monday. I feel like a kid again. I'm five, sitting there on the floor on christmas morning. I can barely hold still while my dad goes through and sorts them by name. Daaaaaaaaad, I wanna tear them open nowwww!!!!!!! The anticipation is killing me but I know the surf will be worth it. The best part is, if I somehow to incredibly screw up a day.. I will have another chance, and that is a rare thing for Texas surf. That is the same feeling I had when I was in Costa Rica. The surf never dropped below chest high the entire time. If I had a bad session, I paddled in, had something to eat, laid in the hammocks a tad, and paddled out later for a retry. No worries! I will try and take some pics if I can stay out of the water long enough. I plan on camping on the beach this entire weekend. Ok guys, wish me luck, cause its time to rip.

Friday, March 03, 2006

Skate Vid is Up!

Well I followed through with my promise and I filmed a decent little sesh at our local ditch. Im the guy in the grey shirt, but I was filming most of the time. I also did all the editing for this little piece and I think it turned out pretttttty nice. Hehe, ok well I know your all very anxious to go and see the video, so here is the link

Wednesday, March 01, 2006

Surfing...The Lack Thereof

I have been surfless for quite a while now and im going INSANE!! Notice the new counter at the top of the page? That is currently set on an estimated date but its pretty close to accurate. Right now Im trying to devise a way for my readers (are there any?) to track my location as I make my way through mexico. I have been looking into APRS position reporting system but Im not sure if there are any HAM nodes in Mexico to keep me updated. O well I have some time to figure that one out. I have been tossing around numbers and this is just pretty much gonna be the way, unless my friends bail, in which case Ill probably just head back to Costa Rica. k well im out.