Thursday, April 27, 2006

Update again

Well I havent posted in a while and there isnt really much to say. Surf might be running chest to chest+ this weekend. That is much needed. I started running again now that work is finally over. So now I only work Tues. and Thurs, about 3 -5 hours a day and Im off the rest of the week. Same pay. Cant beat that! So yea, running. I ran around a mile for my first time since literally I graduated high school, 3 years ago. It felt very refreshing and as soon as I get off today, Im headed for another one.

Wednesday, April 12, 2006

not much of anything

Well the title sums it up. The same ole same ole is just going on, work, school, waiting for Mexico, and wishing for waves. As sad as it sounds, maybe I can be blessed with an early season hurricane. I have been re-reading "In Search of Captain Zero" by Allan Weisbecker lately and frankly, I cant wait to be on the road. Im really trying to manage my finances well and get this whole idea rolling. Im also planning my "great escape" which should be coming up in the next year to year and a half. I have already pretty much secured a place to stay and a job when I eventually meander my way down through South America to Argentina. Im extreamly excited by the prospects of this trip. I would really like to work my way out into the Carribean and maybe find some type of bar/waiter or commercial fishing work. I would really enjoy that. I want to just take some time out in my life and really figure out what exactly it is that Im suposed to do. I know my parents will flip, Im ready for that. I just cant accept right now that I was born to goto school, graduate, work, buy a house, a car, get married, have a kid or 2.3, and then hopefully live to see them have children. What in the hell is the purpose of that really? Im getting more and more tired of our preconcieved notions of what is the "correct" thing to do. What if I never own a car? So what. What if I never really own much in the meaning of earthly, worldly posessions? What if I never get married? What if my gift with computers is just an illusion and I wasn't meant to pursue any type of work with them? All of these things keep rolling through my thoughts and Im really starting to wonder about what our society tells us. Maybe Im insane. Maybe I have that wierd thing inside of me that seperates the homely from the explorers. Maybe I have some long forgotten explorers genes in me, and my quest for the world and what it contains, especially waves, is just something from my blood trying to surface. Its so hard to break free from the mold I have encased myself in. I know no one will understand my journey this summer through Mexico. I DEFINENTLY know that no one will understand my future travels, but thats ok. They are for me and not them. There is a kid in the book "In Search of Captain Zero" that they run across deep into the jungles near the end of the road in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica. They are just maybe 30 or 40 miles from the Panamanian frontier, staying in a house of guy they know on a deserted beach call "Monkey Point". The kid, described as being in his mid 20's, lives out at this house. When they ask him what he's doing all the way out here he replies with "Im trying to figure out what to do with my life. I figured this would be a good place to think about it". To me, he picked one helluva spot. Its only missing surf and it would have been the perfect spot. Anyways, Im going to end this rant before I get too into this.

Friday, April 07, 2006

The Perfect Session...almost

This morning was just classic. I pulled up at SS today and was greeted by chest to headhigh swell with a very light onshore wind. I didnt waste much time getting into my trunks and I did my pre-paddle out stretching. In no time I had reached the lineup, all 7 of us. SS is a very long beach with multiple peaks everywhere so it can easily handle 50-70 surfers. My very first wave was an awsome left, walling up quick I crouched to get a little low as I usually do when going backside. I just raced the line doing little pumps and some small turns, trying to really start getting a feel for the new fish in bigger surf. I love the board but i have really noticed that she digs the rails very very easily if there isnt enough speed behind the turn. I caught a couple of really fun rights, one which I finally did a legit cutback back toward the white water. I was so stoked to have finally pulled this off. I knew this was going to be a great session after that. Everytime I was just placing myself in perfect postion. I must have taken another 6 or 7 waves when I dropped in low into a walling left. Are my eyes deceiving me?? She is looking ready to pitch! Im super low on the board and sure enough she graced with me a small head dip followed immediatly by a pummeling for attempting to get away with it. The conditions started to change a bit as the wind picked up a little and it started to get a little choppy. Every once in a while, huge cleanup sets around 1 foot overheard would come through. After going over the falls on one wave, I was caught inside and I must have taken easily 10 - 15 waves one after another right in front of me. I have never duck dived so much in my life! I finally made it out past all that, and it kind of went downhill from there. I got all out of sync and kept pitching myself or missing takeoffs. I finally decided to call it quits and head in. Over all it was an awsome session and Im gaining faith in my new board in bigger waves. Im thinking she can hold her own when I take her with me and my Merrick to mexico. Right now im riding it as a quadfin, but I can put the middle back in if I get into some steeper waves to try and decrease the slip. Moving on. I hung out with my friend Sabina last night. Shes headed back to see her family in Poland next Thursday and she will be gone for a month, maybe longer. I will miss her tons as I love hanging out with her. She is one of the only people that really understands my travel passion and what it really means to take off on a long term trip. To get her money to come to the USA, she took a bus to Sicily and got a job in a cafe of sorts. She didnt know Italian or anyone there. I have alot of respect for that and thats why she understand what Im trying to do. Well anyways...Im waterlogged but getting tan as hell hahahahaha. I tan very easily and I LOVE IT!

Monday, April 03, 2006

The Awsome Session

This weekend starting with Friday, has pretty much been a huge blur. My older brother came to stay with me this weekend from Mississippi. In all we did our best to consume all the alcohol in the Houston area and I think we did a damn good job! I bought a new board Friday night from a guy on Texas surfing forum I post on. Its a 6'0 fish with a nice swallow tail. The board uses regular fins and right now it is set up as a quadfin. 2 regular fins on the side with tiny finger fins right next to them, no middle fin. The board was shaped by a local Texas shaper and its shape is perfect for the gulf. I took it out Sunday afternoon while the swell was still holding. It was an ok waist to wast+ on sets with the occasional chest high. It was however very clean and super lined up. Water temp was around 70 with air in the high 70's. I got in around 4:30 and surfed my brains out till 7:20ish. I caught more rides ina single session than I ever have (somewhere around 20) and the board is super fun. It works so much better in the waves than my Al Merrick. I had some drama go down on sunday before the sesh and well... it was good to get my head clear in the water. Im still extreamly confused about the whole situation thats unfolding before me, but hopefully things will work out for the best. Weekend outlook has building SE swell again... I cant wait to get on it!