Monday, July 31, 2006

Mexico Pictures

Here they are folks! Now I had a very hard time narrowing them down from a good 400+ to the 117 displayed here, but it had to be done. These are some of the pictures I consider to be the best. Now before hand let me just explain that I love photography, so there are some very random pictures in here of objects, especially pictures in B&W. Enjoy guys!!


Wednesday, July 26, 2006

Surf.... FINALLY!

Well, today we got blessed with a quickly building SE long fetch windswell. The only problem, the low that created this windswell is passing over all of coastal Texas, meaning its pouring like crazy outside. I surfed all day in t-storms, rain the entire time I was out, a very occasional solid 30mph sideshore wind, and super choppy conditions. The one joy, the swell had a decent interval at 8 seconds, and it was waist+ to chest+. I had a great day even in those horrific conditions. I so needed to get back in the water and Im very glad that I went. I was beginning to dry out and I needed some "seahabilitation". I had some very decent rides out there and all my practice in Mexico was starting to come back to me, despite a really shitty last week and a half there in Mex. I had a very long left, which is rare for me. I somehow stayed right in the pocket. My pumping going backside is a little weak, so I kept doing s-turns and cutbacks to stay right where I needed to be in the wave, a lot of fun! The board that I was on feels so much different from riding a true short board. I was riding my 6'0" fish, but not super thick like most fishes. This board is actually thinner than my 6'6" Al Merrick Kboard, a lot. I had a good right, got some good pumps and a couple of slashes. I took one left at the point that we had the bad 30mph sideshore, and I did a MAJOR cutback, Im talking fully on the rail. I dont know how the fish held it for as long as it did because this board will dig a rail fast as hell. I must have had some major speed from the drop and bottom turn because I have NEVER stood on a rail on a board like that before, especially on this one. As I almost completed the turn and started coming back up, I finally fell over, and the wind caught the board smashing it into my head. Damn sideshore wind. I was actually taking some super steep drops today, literally waiting until the last minute to paddle down the face of a crumbling lip. I guess thats just my Mexico coming out. Well, I might go back tomarrow but I doubt the swell will hold. Hell even if it does, Victory at Sea conditions wear me out. I surfed for almost 5 hours straight today, no breaks and I was paddling ALOT. Thank you Mexico for all you have done to me!

Monday, July 24, 2006

Ok, I was wrong

Well I went through her logs again of the Voyage of the Swell and I found one that I guess I had missed of her travel through Guata and El Salvador and Nica. I can totally understand her reasons for continuing I guess. I really dont see why she skipped El Salvador but maybe those reasons are good to her. The only thing I guess I still am wondering and dont understand about her is why she is hauling so much ass? Your on a worldwide surf tour, sloooooooooooooooooow down. Maybe I dont have much room at all to talk her, but if I was to set out on such a huge journey, I would plan to take my sweet time about it. Deadlines only piss you off on a surf trip. Thats why I meandered my way around Mexico at my rate, with no final destinations in mind. Just like Alan Weisbecker said, you never leave when the surf is good. O well. My apologies to Liz and her crew but... seriously, slow down. Enjoy these areas. Scout every FUCKING piece of coast because you can never be sure you will have the chance to do this again. Just using google earth I have seen so many point/beach breaks in Mexico/Central America it is sickening. Using these marks with and other surf spot sites, a good deal of what I have seen just using google earth probably is not on the maps. I dont care you discover amazing spots and dont talk about them, just give us hints, like "scored an amazing unnamed break". Thats all I need to hear to know you are using that boat to its fullest potential. Please, once again, take your time. If you have major deadlines, then perhaps you should not have tried this trip, or perhaps thats the perils of being sponsored and having everyone pay for you to surf. You run on their schedule, not yours.

Saturday, July 22, 2006

Why I hate Voyage of the Swell

In case you never read the interesting information on here is an update as to what you have been missing. There is this girl and her friend, sailing around the world in a 40ft sailboat and its all being sponsored by their parents,, and private donations. Take a look at it, its interesting stuff. Ohh and you will understand my argument/rant a little more thoroughly.

Ok, on with the rant. This girl is completely jaded in my opinion. She has the luxury of owning a damn 40ft sailboat while people pay for her to just globetrot chasing surf. Now normally, I would be totally supporting her and what she's doing and in a way, I still am. The problem lies with her opinions, her worldview, and her lack of true surf exploration. First of all, when reading through all of her posts, as soon as she makes it south of the border her attitude towards Mexico and its people immediately turns negative and almost pitying. She kind of looks down her nose at the people and frankly, I don't like that. Yes you are so lucky to be from southern California and rich and all that mess, but you need to have a little more compassion for these people. What you see crossing the borders and the people actually living there are 2 totally different things. Im not saying shes all negative, but it just looks that way, to me at least.

The second thing is her worldview. Im totally into and understanding of the all natural, oatmeal and fruit dinner type of stuff, but this is getting a little bit far. She gets invited to go with some Costa Rican fishermen to help pull up their nets and help with their catches, and she says "me and shannon had already talked and prepared ourselves for the carnage we knew we would see. We told ourselves this is a cultural learning experience". oohhhhh kayyyyyy.... thats not exactly what she said, but close. Ill leave that one alone.

The last thing is her lack of surf exploration. This girl has the number 1 way to explore surf. We happen to enjoy a sport or ritual or pastime that involves the ocean and a coastline. The number one way to access these coastlines, is with a boat. In my opinion, you cannot beat a sailboat for its cheapness to operate and overall lower cost than yahts. If you read through her blog, she basically hauled ass down the coast of Mexico. She passed up so many key surfing spots its sickening. She set out and headed to the most popular areas and bypassed what some would call the best secrets in Mexico surf, AND she's got a damn boat!!!!! Dont even get me started on her little stint into Central America. She completely bypassed Guatemala, which for the most part is largely still unexplored. This alone should go down in the books as pure bullshit. How can you even begin to call yourself a surfer and an explorer when you cannot even spare 1 week on the Guatemalan coast? After this she flys right past El Salvador which has some of the best rights in all of Central/South America. Some even consider the wave in La Libertad to be world class, and thats not a statement we just throw around. Next she completely passes Nicaragua. We have all heard the stores of uncrowded, and completely safe surf. I could maybe see her skipping El Salvador due to security reasons, but Nicaragua???? CMON! Then she heads straight into, ready for the drum roll??? COSTA RICA! The most fucking Americanized third world surf zone on the planet. She heads straight into Ollie's Point area, which again, is a well known and crowded surf spot. She sounds in her post like she even complains about the crowd a little. umm HELLO??? YOU HAVE A FUCKING SAILBOAT, STOP FARTING AROUND AND SAIL AROUND THE BEND! This entire post may sound like a huge jealousy bit and frankly Im not ashamed to admit that it is. I think I could do a HELLUVA better job with less surfing skill than her. She would obviously outsurf me and thats ok, but she lacks that true sense of exploring. You put me on that boat, and Im not complaining about low supplies and crowded surf. Ill eat fish raw, and be a damn sea hardy pirate and surf my brains out in untold lands in Central America. She sails her ass right into the shopping mall of surf spots and claims to be on a global surf expedition in daddy's boat. whatever im done with this shit.

Saturday, July 15, 2006

Some beautiful waves

Here is a picture of a wonderful left point break to beach break that I "semi" surfed. I mostly hung on the inside trying to pick off a few closeout rights. I need to seriously up my skill of backside to take advantage of this firing left. God you lucky goofy-footed bastards.

Friday, July 14, 2006

why is my blog fucked?

lol im trying to fix my blog... k maybe im not at my soberest moment, but still. Im trying hard here and reading through all my html for errors in NOTEPAD isn't exactly the easiest thing right now. Im hoping that this post will clear the error, and if not, then I will have to find it somehow.

Im back

Well I got back really on tuesday morning. Im working and trying to adjust to life back in the states. Im not going to lie, Im depressed. O well. Hopefully Ill have something better to post soon.

Wednesday, July 05, 2006


Well Im getting close to the end of my vacations here in Mexico. Wow it feels like it just started yesterday. Im trying to recap a lot of things in my head and it just feels like a blur. I somehow feel very pissed off at myself for my level of surfing, but isn`t this trip about vacation and exploring as well? I know much more about this amazing land than I ever did before and all my pre-meditated ideas and prejudices are completely gone. I no longer have any fear whatsoever of this country. The people here are amazing, the waves are amazing and a half, and the land is so beautiful. My goals for when I return are to drastically improve my level and style of surfing and really be ready for another trip. I know what I need to work on, and I now have new goals for surfing and my life. Like the cali guy Jeremy told me in response to my telling him I surf on average of maybe 4 times a month, "Dude, if you love surfing so much, move for waves". Not everyone can do such a big move, but Im young and he does have a point. He packed his shit and moved to Mexico when everyone said he was nuts. Now he surfs by himself pretty much and lives the Mexican life, free of crowded and localized lineups. I know I could do such a thing for at least half a year no sweat but its such a major life change, possibly something Im not quite ready for.

I return in 6 days. I MUST improve my surfing. I MUST get a second job to start preparing for a huge trip in my car. I MUST buy another board, something smaller and ready to start learning some very aggressive shortboarding. I have my fish but thats different. I will return to Mexico, advanced and ready to really rip. No more kooking out in the lineups. Something tells me I really shouldnt be too hard on myself, considering I have only surfed maybe 50 times in my career as a surfer. 2 years maybe 3, averaging 10 - 20 go outs a year. Im tired of this. When there are waves, no more second guessing. Its time to start ripping.

Saturday, July 01, 2006


Well we left Mita and went camping in the south with some other SD cali guys we met up with. The first place, which shall go unnamed, was a heaaaaaaavyyy beachbreak and I only rode 1 wave there. First day there we got the damn trucks stuck hardcore and I dug one out, but we had to send Comanchio to get us a tractor to get the fully loaded Tundra out. Great camping but the next day the security came and asked us to leave because surfing and beach access was fine during the day but camping overnight was not allowd because it was private propterty. We took off and headed to another spot, super secluded. Today was very very nice and heavy but it was a left and my backsides were not fast enough. I only rode 2 waves at this place. The cali guys were kinda cool but I was very intimidated in the water and basically I kooked out. They probably think I totally suck. Anyways...Im back in Mita and I have only 9 days left here. Im going to surf in Mita a few more days then head out for interior Mex as I start working my way back home. I feel like Im totally in a slump but I know I have progressed immensly here. Im already thinking of my next trip here and I will probably drive next time. Driving here is cake pretty much, accept for the night we drove to Sayulita and almost hit 5 horses doing 50mph. And then I drove back that night and almost hit a cow hahahhaa. The camping I have experienced the past few days was amazing and as soon as I return I will be posting pictures and possibly videos if I can. Well, Im off to find some more surf! ooooohhhh and Gracefully, there are some very good surfer girls here. The attitude in the water is not aggressive towards them either, not from locals or vacationers. In all, alot of the locals here rip. In sayulita I was watching a guy doing 180 shoveits, 2 on 1 wave! He did a few rodeo airs as well. Some really talented surfers here. See ya guys soon!