Monday, October 16, 2006

My Birthday

So... Sunday was my bday, so happy bday to me! I had a great time on Sat. night celebrating with all my friends. I think I got a tad too trashed though, especially since I was trying to maintain composer for surfing on Sunday morning. So, lets just say I didnt come even close to waking up, but my good buddy Joe shows up. He lets himeself in because everyone is in an alcohol induced coma, especially me. I dont even remember leaving the bar so that should say enough. He wakes me up, and eventually we get on the road. Im driving, and well, I shouldnt have been driving. Im wearing my shirt I made at kinkos, has a huge picture of horrible hurricane surf from hurricane Emily last year. She came way too close to us, and totally blew the surf to bits. Ill post the pic. Anyways the caption on the shirt says "The Life of a Texas Surfer", and the picture is just sooo fitting. Im wearing it from the night before, coverd in puke, and other shit. We head to the surf. Head high to head +, choppy. I love it!

We are walking out along the jetty to jetty jump in conditions like these and Im telling Joe I dont know how so many people fuck up jetty jumping. Its not exactly that complicated. Joe makes it off the jetty without an issue, and Im stupidly getting lower on the low rocks to jump off, not eyeing the approaching set. The first wave hits, not too much. Second wave, Im calf deep in water, trying to hold my ground, but sliding on the slippery rocks. Third wave, I get seriously rocked and I almost lose it. I start looking to higher ground when the fourth hits, water rushes almost waist deep, and I go down when the tail of my board catches water. Now here I am, sliding on my back, head first down the rocks and into the water/impact point of where the waves suck off the side of the jetty in a neet curling design and slam back into it. Full of treacherous barnacles and all kinds of lovely joyous shit. I go right through it, board still in hand. I make it out into the water rather unharmed, just a torn up hand and lower back, but still in good shape considering what just happened. The board looks ok despite alot of scratches in the glass around the nose and some chewed up part of my fin. Other than that, I had fun surfing. I love surf with size as it always gets me pumping. I had only 2 decent waves due to the still fairly impaired motor skills and nervous system but I still had a blast.

In all, I had a great time for my birthday and surfing, and Im looking to head down again tomarrow now that all this nasty rain/storm/flooding business is finally over. The winds are supposed to relax, and we should be left with clean head to head+ surf all day tomarrow. We will see...

1 comment:

gracefullee said...

Happy birthday!