Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Summer Crap Surf

The surf yesterday was crap-tacular and Im not joking. I drove down with Mel and my 2 friends that are traveling to Mexico with me. The surf was waist to waist + but completely blown out due to what seemed to be an extreame NE wind around 15kt blowing sideshore onto a SW facing beach. These are all the ingredients to a horrible day of surf. It was semi decent for around an hour but as the wind picked up, it got very peaky and a horrible current TOWARDS the jetty formed making it impossible to sit and enjoy the session. Tons of paddling and dodging rogue peaks and fighting the horrendous current. I had a few good rides though and my best was during the crappiest conditions. I took a nice huge peak to the right but instead of the ride ending quickly as they usually do in these conditions, I made the connetion with a forming inside sandbar. The right walled up again on me and I got low on the board and dug into the wall and ended the closeout with a little snap back. Another nice ride I was high up on the wave, sort of dangling on the lip if you will. I couldnt break free so I worked with what I had and it ended up being a pretty decent ride. Well thats about all I have to say about yesterday's session. Ill post again before we leave for Mexico and I might reset my counter to reflect the day I will return.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

Wow... I was checking ur counter...just 7 days and u'll be around..well well well...
I hope u have sum nice vacations here in my country... I consider Mexico one of the most beautiful countries in the world, it's just that our governers have stold a lot of money from it and have take a lot of advantage of it. So I really hope u have a great time, If there's any chance u go by manzanillo let me know, I'll call my cousins and they'll make u ride a horse lol... no I'll tell'em to take u to sum surf spots or sumthing we'll se what happens...
I hope u had a great day surfing yesterday lol not like the day we went!...and well u told me u're sunburn, u deserve it beotch! =) hahaha send u tons of kisses..luv ya!

Anonymous said...

good yes reset your timer so i can call you, i kinda miss you! its been alot of dasys and you havent called, starting to worry!have you gotten my emails? ive sent two! miss ya luv ya bye xxxxx

Anonymous said...

I'm on the phone right now with u...chill out!!! OMG OMG OMG 5 days!!!!!! 5 days!!!! =)

Anonymous said...

COSTA RICA "UH HUH UH HUH" haha sorry had to do that! it was funny im still laughing about it MOHAHAHA MMMWAAAHHHHHH