Tuesday, August 07, 2007

Im back

Well, first I just want to say Im sorry for everyone who still reads this piece of shit. Yea I know I hardly updated while I was in Mex but I was on a mission to keep an accurate diary this year and rewriting what I had just written seemed a little redundant to me. Also, trying to find or make the effort to walk to an internet cafe EVERYDAY or whatever to blog was just stupid. So, I want to say Im sorry.

Yea, so I got back on the first. I have been slowly trying to readjust to being here and its been hard as hell I can say that. Im trying to not drive like Im in Mexico. Im trying to fight the urge to pull over and grab a beer for the road to fight that traffic hahaha. Im trying to get used to hearing english everywhere I go, and change my thinking back to english. Im trying to get used to not surfing, exploring, or waking up to something new everyday.

Why is it such a crime to always want these things? Living dynamically as I have been for the past 2.5 months has been a life changing experience and one that I will never forget. I have been humbled in many ways and countless times on this trip. I wake daily now and no longer see my map. I no longer see options for my day. Now I see things I have to do. I see that routine filling in. I see no waves on my horizon.

I chased waves all over Mexico this summer. I scored great and I got skunked too on astronomical levels. That's the balance of this great activity that we surfers seek. One must pay the toll to keep riding. My tolls included many skunks. Getting stabbed. Living in a tent for 2.5 months. Crapping in things that could barely be called toilets. Somehow avoiding both Malaria and Dengue (I still dont know how). Getting sick countless times including food poisoning on the drive back home. Now Im back here, wondering what to do next.

On my last day in Mexico in Punta de Mita I did something I had set out to do but almost didnt. I drove out that afternoon and explored the Cabo Corrientes. What I found out there was simply amazing, and I drove merely 1/3 of it. I found little settlements of farmers and ranchers. I found towns where who knows when the last gringo came through. I found a beach that breaks good on NW swells that has a jetty and an all rock bottom. Has it ever been surfed? I doubt it. I found countless backcountry dirt roads for exploring for the patient. I found a little ranch where I bought some Raicilla, Mexican/Jalisco moonshine in an old dirty water bottle. I was glad I drove out there. It was long (6 hours) and hard but well worth it. There are still parts of Mexico on the coast that are untouched and this is one of them. Its absolutely beautiful, and for all those future land developers reading this, good luck, its all ejido and backcountry. You wont be able to get the infrastructure there for years, hell the road isnt even in barely passable condition in parts. So, just leave it be.

Im trying to decide what course to take lately. Im going to take some more classes this fall, thats a neverending mission. Just a few at a time, Ill finish eventually right? I need to start chunking back cash NOW to try and get a jump on the trip coming up next summer. Its looking like I may have 4 months off so thats going to be a little expensive on my end. Who knows where I will go. I have been thinking of many things. Drive to Panama? Australia? Bali/Indo? Im not sure what it will be but it will be good, thats for sure. Ill try to get back on this blogging thing. Sorry, my heart just isnt here right now.

I miss you Leslie


Whiffleboy said...

Welcome back.

I'm sure you're going through a major shock right now trying to get re-acclimated. I can only imagine.

But keep things in perspective. You're doing time right now in order to enable yourself to live the simple life once again next Summer.

You should write a book.

gracefullee said...

Don't worry about blogging for us. We'll be here. Take your time to process your summer journey with the longer life one. Welcome back!