Wednesday, June 14, 2006


Well... In case you dont surf or just didnt know, a HUGE swell from the SW is about to rock Mexico down to its core. Sunday is calling for 13 to 19ft at 20 seconds. Good thing we are not exactly on an exposed southern beach but a little inside of a bay. The swell wraps around and comes in off of Cabo Corrientes. Anyways, we all had a wonderful afternoon session when we were finally able to score a ride to the break instead of hiking 40 min down the beach and back. I was sucking horribly when the best right of the day was bearing down on me. I adjusted a little and setup, paddling way out in front of her. I was making sure I wouldnt blow another takeoff. I caught it steep and immediatly jumped to my feet and dropped right. She walled fast and for the first time, I let my legs just do the work and my pumping and S turns were very large and fluid. I exited the wave very fast and it has been my best ride so far of the trip and in my time surfing. My friends have been scoring some good waves as well and we are all surfing well in general. Yesterday the session was horrible for me as I couldnt get myself out of a slump and the dropping swell made it even harder. Punta de Mita rocks but im yearning to head south soon. We have renegotiated our little camp spot to $5 a night and there is a great lunch place right nearby that has $1.50 huge ham and cheese sandwiches on torta bread, all grilled. Then theres the .50cent, glass bottled, sugar caned cokes, and $1.80 1 liter pacifico beers. PARADISE! My feet are horrible looking due to the cuts and im actually getting a little worried about infection. O well. Today we are taking a break to heal and not stress out in the small waves and heading to Puerto Vallarta for some exploring and just messing around. Hell its only 30min away and the bus is like 2 or 3 bucks lol. GET READY FOR THE SWELL CALIFORNIA.
Take a look at that!!!! or locations northern mexico, and next sunday.


Whiffleboy said...

Take care of those cuts!!!

Anonymous said...

do they have detol in mexico?????