Friday, April 07, 2006

The Perfect Session...almost

This morning was just classic. I pulled up at SS today and was greeted by chest to headhigh swell with a very light onshore wind. I didnt waste much time getting into my trunks and I did my pre-paddle out stretching. In no time I had reached the lineup, all 7 of us. SS is a very long beach with multiple peaks everywhere so it can easily handle 50-70 surfers. My very first wave was an awsome left, walling up quick I crouched to get a little low as I usually do when going backside. I just raced the line doing little pumps and some small turns, trying to really start getting a feel for the new fish in bigger surf. I love the board but i have really noticed that she digs the rails very very easily if there isnt enough speed behind the turn. I caught a couple of really fun rights, one which I finally did a legit cutback back toward the white water. I was so stoked to have finally pulled this off. I knew this was going to be a great session after that. Everytime I was just placing myself in perfect postion. I must have taken another 6 or 7 waves when I dropped in low into a walling left. Are my eyes deceiving me?? She is looking ready to pitch! Im super low on the board and sure enough she graced with me a small head dip followed immediatly by a pummeling for attempting to get away with it. The conditions started to change a bit as the wind picked up a little and it started to get a little choppy. Every once in a while, huge cleanup sets around 1 foot overheard would come through. After going over the falls on one wave, I was caught inside and I must have taken easily 10 - 15 waves one after another right in front of me. I have never duck dived so much in my life! I finally made it out past all that, and it kind of went downhill from there. I got all out of sync and kept pitching myself or missing takeoffs. I finally decided to call it quits and head in. Over all it was an awsome session and Im gaining faith in my new board in bigger waves. Im thinking she can hold her own when I take her with me and my Merrick to mexico. Right now im riding it as a quadfin, but I can put the middle back in if I get into some steeper waves to try and decrease the slip. Moving on. I hung out with my friend Sabina last night. Shes headed back to see her family in Poland next Thursday and she will be gone for a month, maybe longer. I will miss her tons as I love hanging out with her. She is one of the only people that really understands my travel passion and what it really means to take off on a long term trip. To get her money to come to the USA, she took a bus to Sicily and got a job in a cafe of sorts. She didnt know Italian or anyone there. I have alot of respect for that and thats why she understand what Im trying to do. Well anyways...Im waterlogged but getting tan as hell hahahahaha. I tan very easily and I LOVE IT!

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