Yesterday Recap

Well as for the surf, it was PUMPING! The sets were average chest to 1 foot overhead on the bigger set waves. We had a nice 10-15mph offshore that was almost more of a pain than a blessing. Anyways, I have got to surf more. I totally kooked out and blew alot of potentially good rides. I hesitated waaaaaay too much plain and simple. I did however get a few good lefts, got the bottom turn and tried to smack the lip a little. I only got 1 right, and it was very sub par. BLEEHHHHHH i keep blowing these perfect swells, when will it end?? I woke up this morning to find my knee in severe pain and walking is very difficult. I dont know what thats about but it better heal fast because i have every intention of paddling back out on saturday. Today, bouy is around 9FT again with 10sec periods. I love this.