Monday, March 13, 2006
The 5 days Texas Went OFF!
Well, its Monday afternoon and Im back at work. I missed the session with offshores this morning because I was just tooo tired. I have driven over 400 miles total for surf and another 160 was going to do me in. I went back down to surf on saturday and I finally made it out of my little slump. I caught some pumping lefts and a couple of nice little rights. It was a tad choppier but still chest to head high. I jetty jumped because it was breaking waaaaay out and the paddle out would have been ridiculous. 1 left I remember in particular, I have a hard time seeing the line when Im goign backside, and this wave was no exception. I made a perfect drop and bottom turned dropping low and grabbing my rail, pumped a little and got myself moving. Standing up a little, I looked down the line and "lost" the wave and I could feel myself losing speed. I turned hard back to the left to try and find her and my foot cranked right into the traction pad and I met the wave's face. Turning back right and down again I finished out the ride just pumping and making little turns. Sunday (yesterday) was pretty good but we decided to check out Galveston and man it was choppy. Still Charlie and I made the best out of it, and we surfed our asses off. I caught a few nice rights. One I made a huge bottom turn and was diggin hard to turn back into the face and WHAM, my front foot slipped right off the board and I ate shit. My last good wave, we went onto the other side of the jetty and one of best surfers in Texas was over there with a few others. This was extreamly intimidating and in such choppy and unorganized conditions, I was very nervous. There I was sitting on the side of him, and some other guy and I just saw this little line coming in. The awsome guy didnt go for it, but the other dude was, and we both raced and I just got very confident and stayed right in the peak, and took that wave. I had a fun little right couple of pumps, but that wave was more about respect and I kind of felt it when I paddled back over next to the guy I raced for it. FINALLY, Im not just a stupid newb in the water! The weekend was pretty fun. Saturday when we got out of the water there was a huge house party right down the street and EVERYONE was invited TEXAS style. Couple of kegs (all this for st. patties day) soem bar-b-que and lots of grungy waaaaaaayyyy suburb, cattle land small town people. Ok fuck it, hicks, but they were being really cool. Everyone was super nice and drunk as shit, so we had a blast. Damn if only everyday I could get outa the surf, have a few beers and some hotdogs and for free at that. Well work calls and surf is gonna suck this week.
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