Morning Surf

Today was a nice little session at 37th street in Galveston. 37th tends to break harder and more hallower than the rest of the spots on the island, even its nickname is 37 dump street. It was mostly chest high with semi decent lines. I caught several lefts and rights, none of which were really worth mentioning or recalling, but I had a great time overall. I did however catch a macking headhigh cleanup right on the head. This wave was huge with a horrible sucking face (the tide was going out and makes 37th very hollow) and she was hellbent on killing me. I duckdived and it slammed on my head with all its might and I must have flipped 2 or 3 times with board in hand and it was pretty exciting. This one kid took a horrible pitching wave and somehow made the drop, completely verticle. I thought for sure he would eat it, but he let out a loud yell (maybe yeee-haaawww!! lol) and landed it. The water temp wasnt too bad and I trunked it without a shirt much to the amazement of several guys out. Water was like 67 with severe overcast skies and low 60s air temp. So now Im sitting here at work, and I just love that salty feeling all over me and Im not being sarcastic. Maybe I was just a beach bum in another life or something, but I actually enjoy it. The cakey hair that will stay in any formation you put it, the flaky salty skin, the smell of the water and salt. The problem is Im so incredibly tired due to the 2 hours of sleep I got last night. BLEH!!! I had some awsome post worked out in my head while driving to the beach this morning but I have forgotten it. It was just a rant about dreams and lockdown USA, basically all the same shit Im always bitching about.