Friday, March 17, 2006
Change of Plans
Well...it looks like I will miss out on a sunday sesh due to the death of my grandfather today. I didnt know him very well (met him once) but I will be driving to Oklahoma this weekend to meet my moms side of the family, some I havent seen in over 10 years! I will however be back in time to catch monday going off as a cool front is forecast to pass over giving us some offshores. I just finished my new "The Surfer's Path" and there is an awsome article about surfing on the Marshall Islands. The author mentions a guy he runs into and the conversation they have. The guy just seems to live and camp out kinda wherever life may take him and he says this. "I've never had a career. Soceity looks at you and sets the bar, especially in L.A. What car you drive, where you live, where you work. I haven't had a car in 25 years." "I'm rediscovering the art of human being. When I look at people in today's society, I see human doings and human thinkings, but the 'being' part - what is that? What is it to just be? I want to just 'unbecome', because our whole life is spent because something like being a beautiful creature isn't enough." As more and more time goes by, I realize...I would like to strip down....and leave. There is so much in the world for me to see and I cant keep sitting here, reading stories of how so many other people are living how I would like to live for a bit. This summer is going to rock. Anyways...hopefully I will have some pictures of the surf to post by monday or tuesday.
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2 comments:
That was a great article. Somehow (and I haven't quite figured out how), I ended up with a subscription to The Surfer's Path. Great read. I especially liked the issue prior where they highlighted some famous "rock star" surfers. I had know idea some of the guys I read about surfed.
Thanks for quoting from the article. Those are good things to think about, especially this day (3rd anniversary of the bombing of Iraq).
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