Surf.... FINALLY!

Well, today we got blessed with a quickly building SE long fetch windswell. The only problem, the low that created this windswell is passing over all of coastal Texas, meaning its pouring like crazy outside. I surfed all day in t-storms, rain the entire time I was out, a very occasional solid 30mph sideshore wind, and super choppy conditions. The one joy, the swell had a decent interval at 8 seconds, and it was waist+ to chest+. I had a great day even in those horrific conditions. I so needed to get back in the water and Im very glad that I went. I was beginning to dry out and I needed some "seahabilitation". I had some very decent rides out there and all my practice in Mexico was starting to come back to me, despite a really shitty last week and a half there in Mex. I had a very long left, which is rare for me. I somehow stayed right in the pocket. My pumping going backside is a little weak, so I kept doing s-turns and cutbacks to stay right where I needed to be in the wave, a lot of fun! The board that I was on feels so much different from riding a true short board. I was riding my 6'0" fish, but not super thick like most fishes. This board is actually thinner than my 6'6" Al Merrick Kboard, a lot. I had a good right, got some good pumps and a couple of slashes. I took one left at the point that we had the bad 30mph sideshore, and I did a MAJOR cutback, Im talking fully on the rail. I dont know how the fish held it for as long as it did because this board will dig a rail fast as hell. I must have had some major speed from the drop and bottom turn because I have NEVER stood on a rail on a board like that before, especially on this one. As I almost completed the turn and started coming back up, I finally fell over, and the wind caught the board smashing it into my head. Damn sideshore wind. I was actually taking some super steep drops today, literally waiting until the last minute to paddle down the face of a crumbling lip. I guess thats just my Mexico coming out. Well, I might go back tomarrow but I doubt the swell will hold. Hell even if it does, Victory at Sea conditions wear me out. I surfed for almost 5 hours straight today, no breaks and I was paddling ALOT. Thank you Mexico for all you have done to me!