Monday, September 25, 2006
Surf AGAIN!
Well I got great chest to chest+ surf on friday with my friend Shane that went to Mexico with me. We scored it great deaspite the 20mph onshores. It actually was pretty clean and the current wasn't too bad. I got some great rides, mostly lefts. I keep botching up my rights lately and I dont know why, o well, it will come back. I really want to get on a new board, my fish just isnt my style. Its really fun sometimes but Im looking for a more aggressive style that I'm not quite good enough yet to pull on a twin fin. I still have my eyes on that damn Sashimi. I did get one good ride however after I paddled in and sat on the beach for about 45 min. I sat up there just thinking of the world, how I want to see it. I was trying my best to clear my head of my frustrations with my surfing ability especially after some kid next to me was pulling ollie 180's on the wave face. So then I paddled back out, missed a bunch of waves, then finally caught a nice perfect right that just totally stoked me. I didn't make any large manuevers but right at the last minute I made a hard turn back straight to align back in the pocket, getting on the rail pretty good. I think I might have actually thrown some spray because I caught a dirty look from a kid who was in the general vicinity of my hard turn. Who knows.
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1 comment:
Congrats on gettin' some wave time!
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