Friday, October 21, 2005
surfing up ahead
well the good gods of surfing have blesses us once again with hurricane wilma. my prayers and thoughts go out to the people in mexico, cuba, honduras, and jamaica. we are already seeing solid 3ft groundswell hitting us, but florida bouys are showing a solid 12-13 ft groundswell headed toward them, its just unfair. i guess thats the gift you get to have your house destroyed. im looking forward to surfing my ass off this weekend. so as these days keep going by, im wondering more and more why im here. im kinda fucking around in school, and not doing so hot. man there just has to be some other alternative in the world, i dunno. maybe i should just stop being lazy and do it, and get out and done, and go see the world. i really need to get my act together and just toughen up. stop going to barneys for ping pong and a beer or 2, stop hanging out, stop wasting time when i could be doing my homework (haha right now) and just do it, and reap the rewards later when i can spend the whole summer, traveling and visiting some foreign land, surfing the waves of this land, sitting back in a hammock with a beer, thats the life. i have been talking alot with sabina (my friend from poland) and i really think we are approaching life the wrong way here. we have discussed the american psychology over and over, and im slowly realizing, americans dont know how to live life, simply put! we work and slave away for the dollar, out lives never really changing, nothing new happening, and we dont know how to enjoy it. ive started to connect this theory with other american problems, divorce, suicide, teenage drug use. amazing that a world a way in latin america and europe and other parts, they dont have much of these problems. life is like a stagnant, and ever tightening in this place. in costa rica it was amazing to see if the store would open for the day. that is life my friends. no wal-mart 24/7. this store opened at 2pm till 6pm, thats it hahaha. most other places closed at around 12 -2pm for afternoon siesta, like a resting time. hammocks, and beer, and fruit, and beautiful beaches, and great food and fish. WHAT ELSE DO YOU NEED? im gonna end with a quote from fight club, "the things you own, end up owning you" - tyler durdin
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